Return To Rome

I have fallen in love with Rome all over again, and come across record numbers of American expats who have made the move. Tourism has also returned in record numbers, much to the relief of the locals had a very rough few pandemic years. Normally I stay at hotels or Airbnbs in central Rome, but this time opted for the lovely neighborhood of Garbatella which is just a couple of metro stops away from the action, but is a nicer place to return home for quiet and community life.

The result of 3000 years of ad hoc urban development, Rome‘s cityscape is an exhilarating spectacle. Ancient icons such as the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Pantheon recall the city’s golden age as caput mundi (capital of the world), while its many monumental basilicas testify to its historical role as seat of the Catholic Church. Lording it over the skyline, St Peter’s Basilica is the Vatican’s epic showpiece church, a towering masterpiece of Renaissance architecture. Elsewhere, ornate piazzas and showy fountains add a baroque flourish to the city’s captivating streets. An open-air museum, the city has an ever-growing list of spectacular (and visitable) archaeological sites and monuments, gilded churches filled with paintings by Italy’s top master artists, exquisitely sculpted fountains, and beautifully manicured public parks.

But you don’t get to be the Eternal City without keeping some pace with the modern world. Sure, the warmest of the European capitals has plenty of UNESCO World Heritage Sites—the Colosseum, the Pantheon, the Sistine Chapel—but when you visit Rome, the most irresistible quality may be how its modern-day trattorias and sleek coffee bars happily co-exist with ancient treasures, and how even hallowed spots like the Pantheon come to life with chatter and espresso drinkers at all hours.

The Sound of Rome: Music & Entertainment

While Rome may not be the birthplace of jazz like New Orleans, it has a deep musical heritage, from opera to contemporary performances. Some must-visit spots include:

Teatro dell’Opera di Roma – A historic opera house offering incredible productions of Italian classics.
Auditorium Parco della Musica – A modern venue that hosts concerts ranging from classical to rock and jazz.
Piazza Navona & Trastevere – Street musicians and local artists fill these charming areas with music, creating an enchanting ambiance.
Alexanderplatz Jazz Club – One of Rome’s premier jazz venues, offering live performances in an intimate setting.

Must-Try Local Foods

Rome’s culinary scene is legendary, with flavors that capture the essence of Italy. Here are some dishes you can’t miss:

Cacio e Pepe – A simple yet delicious pasta dish made with Pecorino Romano cheese and black pepper.
Carbonara – Roman-style pasta featuring eggs, Pecorino Romano, pancetta, and black pepper.
Amatriciana – A rich tomato-based pasta with guanciale (cured pork cheek) and Pecorino Romano.
Supplì – Fried rice balls filled with gooey mozzarella, often enjoyed as a street snack.
Carciofi alla Romana – Roman-style artichokes, braised with herbs and olive oil.
Tiramisu – A creamy, coffee-infused dessert that originated in Italy.

For authentic Roman cuisine, visit:

Roscioli – A famous deli and restaurant serving exquisite pasta and charcuterie.
Trattoria Da Enzo al 29 – A cozy spot in Trastevere known for its traditional Roman dishes.
Pizzarium – A must-visit for gourmet pizza al taglio (by the slice).

What to Do in Rome

Explore the Colosseum & Roman Forum – Step back in time and witness the grandeur of ancient Rome.
Visit Vatican City – Marvel at St. Peter’s Basilica, the Sistine Chapel, and the Vatican Museums.
Wander Through Trastevere – This charming neighborhood offers beautiful streets, lively piazzas, and authentic eateries.
Throw a Coin in the Trevi Fountain – Ensure your return to Rome by participating in this timeless tradition.
Shop on Via Condotti – Rome’s luxury shopping street, home to designer boutiques like Gucci, Prada, and Valentino.
Relax in Villa Borghese – A picturesque park perfect for a leisurely afternoon stroll.

Luxury Hotels to Stay In

For a lavish stay, consider these top-tier hotels (but there are also many great homsestays / airbnbs available)

JK Place Roma – A stylish boutique hotel offering a chic and intimate experience.

Four Seasons Hotel Rome (Upcoming) – Set to bring unparalleled luxury to the Eternal City.

Hassler Roma – Overlooking the Spanish Steps, this five-star hotel exudes elegance and exclusivity.

Hotel de Russie – A luxurious retreat with stunning gardens and impeccable service.

The St. Regis Rome – A historic yet modern hotel known for its sophisticated ambiance.

*Nearby Train Trips: Naples, Amlafi Coast – Sorrento – Positano

*Highly recommend taking Airbnb Experiences tours, from walking to biking to food, Last time I took a bike ride tour in nature and the famous Ancient Appian Way, which is the same as it was 2000 years ago, and around the Caffarella Park, Ninfeo of Egeria, passing by Capo di Bove and Quintili’s Villa, to get to the Park of the Aqueducts, and along the two ancient roman Aqueductus Claudio and Felix, to Tor Fiscale Park.